Just thought I'd clear up a few misconceptions.
Iamme said:
Dual-point distributors that came on the scene before our current electronic ignition systems did seem to work. Probably like all after market devices, the results would vary from vehicle to vehicle.
Dual point systems addressed a specific problem with high reving engines, namely that as RPM increased the dwell time of the points decreases. The amount of energy that can be stored in the ignition coil is a function of dwell time. Adding a second set of points that opened and closed slightly later than the first set of points allows us to extend the total dwell time between sparks almost up to the theoretical limit, 60 distributor degrees for a 6 cylinder engine, 45 distributor degrees for a V8.
Badger said:
With regard to speed, air resistance increases the faster you go, meaning you'll need to burn more gas to cover the same distance at a faster rate.
Well, if air resistance increased linearly with speed then -- all other things being equal -- you'd get the same gas mileage regardless of speed. Unfortunately, air resistance increases with the square of speed, so vehicle efficiency decreases with increasing speed. And since Power is a linear function of speed also, it turns out that to double our speed we're required to deliver 8 times as much power. This explains why many Formula 1 teams own their own wind tunnel, reducing aerodynamic drag is much more profitable than getting more power from the engine
Badger said:
I must correct something. As the throttle opens, less fuel and more air flow into the carb, leaning out the mixture.
While you're correct that opening the throttle open would ordinarily produce a momentary lean condition (a flat spot), in practice this is not the case since automotive engineers are a cluey bunch. The problem is that when the throttle is snapped open, the vacuum signal at the manifold momentarily drops to almost zero before coming back up again, and since fuel has more inertia than air it takes longer to get it flowing from the venturi again.
But, that's why god invented Accelerator Pumps, Power Valves (in Holleys), Step Up Rods (in Carter AFBs and Thermoquads), and Dampened Pistons (in SUs), these are all methods of supplying a little extra fuel when the throttle opens so that the air fuel ratio stays where it should be.
CurtC said:
I thought the mixture stayed pretty constant, around 15:1, so that three times more air going in means that pretty close to three times more fuel would be going in too.
The theoretical A/F ratio for perfect burning is called the Stochiometric Point, and that's at 14.7:1, we're talking by mass here, not volume, so the amount of fuel delivered to each cylinder is a tiny amount indeed. At stoichiometry, the only byproduct of the combustion process should be water and something else that escapes my memory.
However, we know that we can get more power from an engine by reducing the A/F ratio to as low as around 13:1 during acceleration, and we can get better economy at idle and overrun by increasing the A/F ratio to around 16:1. Advanced engines such as the "Stratafied Charge" engines used in some Hondas can get A/F ratios of up to 20:1 without engine damage.
CurtC said:
I don't understand how the horsepower graph relates to the point. I know that horsepower goes up with RPM, but fuel consumption goes up too. The best efficiency (fuel used per revolution) would be at the lowest RPM that the engine can go without bogging down - something less than 2000 RPM would be my guess.
No, engine efficiency is a function of engine RPM, as engine speed increases it's efficiency will as well, up to a point. This is due to many interrelated factors such as:
- Fuel atomises better with faster flowing air.
- The amount of mixture entering the cylinder (known as the Volumetric Efficiency) increases with faster flowing air.
Originally posted by jimlintott
The motor can only draw its displacement in air with one revolution (unless a blower is involved).
If a 1 litre cylinder is able to draw in 1 litre of mixture on each intake stroke then it has a VE of 100%. A typical street car has a VE in the range of 65% to 75%, mildly modified street cars can get up to around 85%. But there's another effect called "Ram Charging" that can help to increase VE, to better than 100%.
As the valves open air is sucked through the intake runner and into the cylinder. Then, the valve closes but the air keeps trying to move towards the cylinder due to it's inertia. It banks up against the back of the valve, then reverses direction and moves back towards the intake plenum. We can see that standing waves are being set up in the runners, and as the moving mass of air reaches the plenum end of the runner it again reverses direction. At certain engine RPMs, the valve will just happen to open again just as the air is reflecting off the plenum end of the runner, and that's the principle of ram charging. The air is already moving before the valve has opened, so we can get more than 100% filling of the cylinder.
Originally posted by teddygrahams
Horsepower comes into it by the magic "5252" formula...
Well, only if you're an American, civilised people use the even more magic "Torque x Angular Velocity" formula.
Originally posted by teddygrahams
Since HP is low at low RPM, the only way to get power out of an engine is to increase torque at the low end.
Eh? How about just spinning it faster?
Originally posted by davefoc
I don't quite understand how the product is supposed to work. Does it go before or after the air cleaner? When I've seen the infomercials it seems like it might go before the air cleaner. If so wouldn't this pretty much eliminate any swirling from getting into the cylinder?
For a donut style air cleaner it goes inside the air cleaner element itself, for fuel injected engines it goes at the inlet port of the throttle body.
Originally posted by davefoc
Another question, that perhaps somebody could shed some light on: Don't Honda engines already feature some sort of valve and port design that causes the air to swirl?
Yep, they call it not incidently "Swirl Chamber Combustion". And no, I don't believe this device could work. While the manufacturers might be selling the device for A$70, a quick look at the photo of one shows it to be a piece of stamped sheet metal, perhaps 50 cents worth.