• Quick note - the problem with Youtube videos not embedding on the forum appears to have been fixed, thanks to ZiprHead. If you do still see problems let me know.

EMF Radiation Neutralizer

It's pretty easy for the subject to notice if the demonstrator is only pretending not to be able to push the arm down. For example, if you think the demonstrator is just pretending to push your arm, drop your arm by your side as the demonstrator pretends to exert force. They'll look pretty damn silly. No, there are tricks to use - applying actual force, but in a way that fools the subject's body into thinking it's being done in a different way.

Applied kinesiology is a little more sophisticated than just pretending.
When you want the arm to successfully resist you, push towards their feet. It gives them a strong stance and make it easy for them to resist.

When you want the arm to go down, push with a vector away from their feet (sort of pulling towards you). There is no way to resist that without going seriously off balance, taking a step towards the pusher to change the force vector in relationship to your feet, or just dropping the arm. Most will just drop their arm, but any of the three actions look like a successful demonstration.
 
When you want the arm to successfully resist you, push towards their feet. It gives them a strong stance and make it easy for them to resist.

When you want the arm to go down, push with a vector away from their feet (sort of pulling towards you). There is no way to resist that without going seriously off balance, taking a step towards the pusher to change the force vector in relationship to your feet, or just dropping the arm. Most will just drop their arm, but any of the three actions look like a successful demonstration.
That's one method, yes. :D
 
SBA is NOT selling their product -- he's selling his services as a photographer/videographer. I'm an atheist, yet you will find that I've worked on several "religious" videos and shorts, either as director or director of photography.
*snip*
The fact that several attendees gave him their sample stickers on the way out suggests that not everyone bought into the load of codswallop being presented. You might as well gripe about the facility that rented them the room for the meeting. They're equally culpable, which is to say not at all.

Beanbag

Don't get me wrong: I don't think it is a terrible thing that he works for them, but to say that you are not responsible for the products and policies of a company because you only work there is, quite frankly, hypocrisy.

- Unless you are actually sabotaging them, you are enabling them, supporting them to further their business. You may weigh your own need to make money against the actual importance you have and decide to do it after all, but don't say you have no responsibility.

(I suppose this should be a subject for another thread)

Hans
 
I made an EMF blocker of my own for this guitar. It's basically a Faraday cage and consists of copper tape with a conductive adhesive.. It's grounded so that the excess charge goes to ground. It greatly reduces interference from things like florescent lights, CRT monitors, badly shielded building wiring, etc. The stuff described in the OP doesn't sound anything like this real device.

http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k490/FosterZygote/DSC01991.jpg
http://i1112.photobucket.com/albums/k490/FosterZygote/DSC01992.jpg

That's nice work. I'm sure it gives you a good screening, but it aint a Faraday cage. The basic virtue of such a copper plane is that it gives you a very good ground reference for everything.

For DC voltage, it is fairly easy to build a Faraday cage, but EMI screening is a different story altogether. Fortunately, less than an actual cage usually suffices.

Hans
 
Nice axe. If the so-called mylar stickers are metalized, then they're essentially the same thing, just with a pretty logo and probably without the conductive adhesive.

Sorry, but they're not. FZ's screen is a large area, and it has been properly connected to the system ground. Just placing a possibly conductive patch somewhere is most likely worthless and might actually eve nmake things worse.

On that note, if you were to take a low-wattage soldering iron and some low-temp solder (60/40 Pb/Sn) and make a couple tack-solder joints where the copper tape overlaps on the faceplate, it will help improve the shielding. The adhesive, while conductive, still has a higher resistance than a direct metal-to-metal joint. You don't have to solder the entire overlap, just a small dot here and there, nothing too big or you'll melt the plastic.

Again .... To solder a large copper area, you need a fair wattage soldering iron, 50W at least. The copper will shunt way a lot of energy from where you try to make your joint.

In this case, I'd say: If it works don't fix it. You see, this is a common misunderstanding in EMI screening: You may think the signal disappers, but it doesn't; the energy has to go somewhere. That is the reason you can sometimes shield yourself into more problems than you solve: The energy from the noise signal is conducted through your screen and the resulting current may actually couple to something unwanted. The nice thing about the not so perfect conduction of the glue is that it dissipates the energy into heat.

( I have worked professionally with EMI screening and other countermeasures)

Hans
 
Sorry, but they're not. FZ's screen is a large area, and it has been properly connected to the system ground. Just placing a possibly conductive patch somewhere is most likely worthless and might actually eve nmake things worse.
I think you misread --I meant that laying a series of overlapping stickers --IF the adhesive is conductive-- would pretty much match what FZ has done with his guitar, since his solution is somehwat larger conductive copper strips overlapped.

Again .... To solder a large copper area, you need a fair wattage soldering iron, 50W at least. The copper will shunt way a lot of energy from where you try to make your joint.
Perhaps if it was thicker. We're talking copper foil here, and it is QUITE possible to tack solder small sections together with a low-power (even 15-watt) soldering iron: voice of experience here -- I've actually done it, many times. So has any one who's done Tiffany-style lampshades and stained glass work. My work was more of a military nature.

In this case, I'd say: If it works don't fix it. You see, this is a common misunderstanding in EMI screening: You may think the signal disappers, but it doesn't; the energy has to go somewhere. That is the reason you can sometimes shield yourself into more problems than you solve: The energy from the noise signal is conducted through your screen and the resulting current may actually couple to something unwanted. The nice thing about the not so perfect conduction of the glue is that it dissipates the energy into heat.

( I have worked professionally with EMI screening and other countermeasures)

Hans

Nice to meet another member of the EMI community. My specialty was microwave materials, resistive and magnetic materials, and shielding. My job was making things "disappear." Even managed to snag a patent on some of my stuff. But, then again, so have a few inventors of perpetual-motion machines in the past, so I guess that doesn't mean much.

Beanbag
 
Last edited:
I think you misread --I meant that laying a series of overlapping stickers --IF the adhesive is conductive-- would pretty much match what FZ has done with his guitar, since his solution is somehwat larger conductive copper strips overlapped.

Since the stickers are being placed on the back of the phone, this could reflect the microwaves back towards the user, increasing their exposure to microwave radiation.
 
Since the stickers are being placed on the back of the phone, this could reflect the microwaves back towards the user, increasing their exposure to microwave radiation.

No, no! You must place them over the display. As this will prevent you from making calls ....

Nevermind.

Hans
 
Perhaps if it was thicker. We're talking copper foil here, and it is QUITE possible to tack solder small sections together with a low-power (even 15-watt) soldering iron: voice of experience here -- I've actually done it, many times.

Of course, if it is thin enough, but even a 15mu back-plane on a PCB is hard to solder.

So has any one who's done Tiffany-style lampshades and stained glass work. My work was more of a military nature.

The problem is the plane that can sink a lot of heat.


Nice to meet another member of the EMI community. My specialty was microwave materials, resistive and magnetic materials, and shielding. My job was making things "disappear." Even managed to snag a patent on some of my stuff. But, then again, so have a few inventors of perpetual-motion machines in the past, so I guess that doesn't mean much.

Beanbag

We're on the same page, then. Yet, we might well disagree on stuff. Still an element of witchcraft in this.:p

Hans
 

Back
Top Bottom