120 V or 240 V Mains - which voltage is better?

[psionl0]

If it's just one more choice added onto the list for wiring a new circuit, then it's not really much different. It has the advantage of being able to change your mind later about whether you're using the new outlet(s) for 120 or 240 VAC equipment. But unless those 240 VAC appliances come wired with those 5-prong plugs, it's also a drawback. (I'd consider it if wiring a new workshop, but first I'd have to research whether tools equipped with those plugs are available. Also, whether the electrical code allows them.)

These are valid considerations. I am just surprised that nobody has thought of this already if power limitations are an issue. In most parts of the house they would not be necessary but they would be a boon where they were (especially if a standard 120V plug can be inserted into them).

I don't know if washing machines or water heaters are hard wired in the US but if they use a plug and socket, then from the links that bruto posted earlier, you are looking at some pretty specialized (ie expensive) plugs and sockets anyway.

There are many many available standards that are objectively superior to the ones currently in use, but there's no economical path from the status quo to the superior standard. Imperial units in U.S. fittings, fasteners, machinery, and tools. "Positive" and "negative" in electronic notation. Probably too many to count in IT and digital communications.

No such a valid concern in this context. Australia was forced to go metric by the government and although it was an unnecessary expense, it wasn't disastrous (though for a while, I had to have both imperial and metric spanners).

Nobody would be forced to use any particular plug and socket. You can use any one that is up to code.

 

[BowlOfRed]

Nobody would be forced to use any particular plug and socket. You can use any one that is up to code.

Then it's chicken and egg, and the appliance manfuacturers can't drive adoption. It would have to start on the home side, but there it's more expensive over 2-conductor solutions from cable, panel, labor, and box fill perspectives. Anyone trying to cut costs is going to stay far away.

 

[bruto]

So you weren't explaining why it isn't?

Yes, I was explaining why it isn't, in part, which is not quite the same as explaining why it couldn't. Standards in the US are set by industry, which has no true authority. Localities setting up codes tend to go with industry standards, which tend toward improvement but are not usually very fast, and Americans have a dislike of retroactive standards. The result is a mess. Many things that could be done aren't.

Part of what I was explaining, which you are free to dismiss, was for the possible benefit of other non-USA persons who may not be familiar with the way power systems here work.

By the way, to address a later issue, just for information. Washers and dryers are generally not hard wired. Washing machines generally use an ordinary outlet, though I think most modern standards call for it to be on a circuit of its own, and may now also call for it to be a GFCI. All the washers I've installed in the last many years have included clamps and wires for a hard ground to a water pipe in addition. Dryers are wired also on an individual 30 amp 240 volt circuit (unless they're gas dryers, of course, whose electrical part goes to the normal 120 volt outlet). The trick here is that the dryers themselves do not come with a cable. So, presuming that you're doing it yourself, you first determine what kind of outlet you already have, and then buy the correct cable (either three or four prong, depending mostly on age of the outlet).

 

[8enotto]

Mexico runs on an antiquated system that is based off the US system. Your main can be 1 - 3 phase and it can be split into one phase if you desire.

Most all residential is 110 feed and code is quite lax, it mostly applies to commercial builds. At home any damn thing that works can be used, depending on how much you like little kids.

My home is closer to basic US code and outlets
The good ones and all have cover plates. What I replaced wasn't so good.

The better bits ran me a lot more money but it has been well worth it. I had to replace only two light switches in our time here.

The old house was a Simpsons level of bad wiring and a mix of 50 years of crap level parts in states of decay. No fuses or cutoff switch at all. I added that in my time there.

My son got a safer setting to grow up in.

 

[Dave Rogers]

On careful reflection, I can't remember ever having an electrical appliance that didn't work off a 13 amp square pin socket. They're pretty much universal in the UK these days for domestic use.

Dave

 

[lomiller]

On careful reflection, I can't remember ever having an electrical appliance that didn't work off a 13 amp square pin socket. They're pretty much universal in the UK these days for domestic use.

Dave

Even range and dryer? I could add central AC, but my understanding it that isn’t common.

 

[Dabop]

Been a while since I saw the UK, so can't say about current practices there, but in Australia, the 10A socket is the standard, with 15A seen occasionally... usually for specific appliances or in workshops/sheds (for welders and the like)

Ranges are always hardwired here (except gas, they usually have a 10A socket for the controls) usually in 4mm or 6mm depending on number/size of elements (although you can get 'camping' two burner counter top units sometimes seen in single bedroom flats etc, they are a 10A plug)

Same with central or split cycle aircons, always fixed cables...
'Window rattlers' are 10A for smaller units, or 15A for larger ones- usually on their own circuit and breaker

Dryers are a 10A for domestics (some commercial dryers use 15A's) and are always supplied with lead and plug fitted, as indeed is any non fixed or 'semi portable' appliances.... no separate circuit required however (here ALL circuits- power and light are required to have a ground leakage breaker- older systems are required to be upgraded to them any time any work is done on the property)

Washers, driers, 'window rattler' aircons- always come with lead and plug fitted (indeed under Australian Standards, 'home handyman' fitting of leads, plugs etc is against the law, and can possibly land you with a fine- anything except changing a bulb or tube is a big nono- electrician required...

 

[8enotto]

In urban areas it makes sense to have that type of law, I am sure out on remote locations a lot of home fixes are DIY.

 

[Elagabalus]

Been a while since I saw the UK, so can't say about current practices there, but in Australia, the 10A socket is the standard, with 15A seen occasionally... usually for specific appliances or in workshops/sheds (for welders and the like)

Ranges are always hardwired here (except gas, they usually have a 10A socket for the controls) usually in 4mm or 6mm depending on number/size of elements (although you can get 'camping' two burner counter top units sometimes seen in single bedroom flats etc, they are a 10A plug)

Same with central or split cycle aircons, always fixed cables...
'Window rattlers' are 10A for smaller units, or 15A for larger ones- usually on their own circuit and breaker

Dryers are a 10A for domestics (some commercial dryers use 15A's) and are always supplied with lead and plug fitted, as indeed is any non fixed or 'semi portable' appliances.... no separate circuit required however (here ALL circuits- power and light are required to have a ground leakage breaker- older systems are required to be upgraded to them any time any work is done on the property)

Washers, driers, 'window rattler' aircons- always come with lead and plug fitted (indeed under Australian Standards, 'home handyman' fitting of leads, plugs etc is against the law, and can possibly land you with a fine- anything except changing a bulb or tube is a big nono- electrician required...

So if you require an electrician anyway the USAsian can get the electrician to hook up 220V at 30A (at least).

After a quick perusal of Australian Washing Machines I see the Aussies have gone full Eurotard. Which is, I guess, why one poster is so obsessed with putting the electric kettle on? Anyway, North American Washing Machines hook directly into the taps (both hot and cold) so no waiting around for the EU certified Energy Saver Washing Machine to heat up the water inside the machine (with its pathetic 240V 10A heating element) to 90C to do whites. Whites take about as long as colors! Or is that colours! Bwahahahahahaha. Cough ...

 

[Klimax]

So if you require an electrician anyway the USAsian can get the electrician to hook up 220V at 30A (at least).

After a quick perusal of Australian Washing Machines I see the Aussies have gone full Eurotard. Which is, I guess, why one poster is so obsessed with putting the electric kettle on? Anyway, North American Washing Machines hook directly into the taps (both hot and cold) so no waiting around for the EU certified Energy Saver Washing Machine to heat up the water inside the machine (with its pathetic 240V 10A heating element) to 90C to do whites. Whites take about as long as colors! Or is that colours! Bwahahahahahaha. Cough ...

Hm, still better then having to deal with electrical nonsense found in USA... (even Italians have more sense then you and their electrical wiring and sockets are crazy)

 

[Dave Rogers]

Even range and dryer? I could add central AC, but my understanding it that isn’t common.

Oh, yeah, cookers are hard-wired in; sorry, I forgot that, because until this year I've always had gas cookers. Normal domestic tumble dryers work off a single standard 13A 240V socket.

Dave

 

[psionl0]

(indeed under Australian Standards, 'home handyman' fitting of leads, plugs etc is against the law, and can possibly land you with a fine- anything except changing a bulb or tube is a big nono- electrician required...

Heh, my most recent sub woofer was wireless. That would have been terrific if it didn't need to be plugged into a power outlet. Worse, the power cord was so short that it wouldn't have reached any power point. Worser still, it used a special brand of plug that went into the back of the unit so there was no buying a longer cord off the shelf.

My only option was to splice an extra length of cable into the cord.

 

[bruto]

Heh, my most recent sub woofer was wireless. That would have been terrific if it didn't need to be plugged into a power outlet. Worse, the power cord was so short that it wouldn't have reached any power point. Worser still, it used a special brand of plug that went into the back of the unit so there was no buying a longer cord off the shelf.

My only option was to splice an extra length of cable into the cord.

When faced with similar problems here (many things have cords too short) our usual solution would be an extension cord at the other end. Is there some reason in your case why that couldn't be done?

 

[psionl0]

When faced with similar problems here (many things have cords too short) our usual solution would be an extension cord at the other end. Is there some reason in your case why that couldn't be done?

Classic cases of "spoiling the ship for a ha'porth of tar".

In my case, the cord had to run through some tight spaces which didn't really accommodate a plug and socket in the middle.

 

[bruto]

Classic cases of "spoiling the ship for a ha'porth of tar".

In my case, the cord had to run through some tight spaces which didn't really accommodate a plug and socket in the middle.

That makes sense, then.

WRT cords too short, there was a period in the 1970's, coinciding with a copper shortage, when power tool manufacturers apparently decided to economize by putting little stub cords on tools. I suppose, along with the economy angle, they figured most tools need an extension cord anyway. Consumers, of course, hated it and the trend did not last long. One of the things they sort of forgot to take into account was the fact that extension cords pull apart easily unless they're knotted. It's one thing to have an extension at the end of a four foot cord somewhere behind you, and a whole lot different to have the plug six inches from the handle of a tool, where not only is it in the way, and likely to pull out, but deadly dangerous if it's part of the way out. Nowadays most of the power tools with cords that I see have nice long ones again.

A good exception is hedge clippers, which often have a plug recessed into the handle, and no cord at all. The assumption here is that you will clip through the cord at some time, so it's your problem now.

 

[Trebuchet]

A good exception is hedge clippers, which often have a plug recessed into the handle, and no cord at all. The assumption here is that you will clip through the cord at some time, so it's your problem now.

And I've done that. The hedge clippers also had an arrangement to snap the cord into to stop the plug pulling out. It was somewhat helpful. Then I got a battery hedge clipper, for the little I needed it. Now I just have a yard man.

 

[Darat]

Oh, yeah, cookers are hard-wired in; sorry, I forgot that, because until this year I've always had gas cookers. Normal domestic tumble dryers work off a single standard 13A 240V socket.



Dave

Quite a few cookers can now run from a standard plug socket and induction hobs as well. A normal plug in induction hob is OK unless you want to use all 4 plates on full power all at once.

 

[a_unique_person]

I never liked that phrase. To me, it's like saying "It's not the gunpowder that kills you, it's the lead projectile." When in fact, it's the right combination of both that kills you.

Yeah. I could have a power supply capable of providing 1000 amps at one volt and be perfectly safe.

 

[This is The End]

Heh, my most recent sub woofer was wireless. That would have been terrific if it didn't need to be plugged into a power outlet. Worse, the power cord was so short that it wouldn't have reached any power point. Worser still, it used a special brand of plug that went into the back of the unit so there was no buying a longer cord off the shelf.

You're going to have to run that by me again.

If it plugs "into a power outlet" then it could use a normal extension cord. It matters not what the plug that goes into the device is.

Are you merely saying that you do not like the look of 2 cords joined together and that you prefer one cord?

 

[CORed]

While not as common as 15A receptacles, 15/20A receptacles are seen in kitchens, bathrooms & laundry rooms. That would be a 2400W max.

IIRC, the plug for 20A appliances has one prong horizontal (I don't remember whether it's hot or neutral. Most 20A sockets I have seen are constructed so that they will take either type of plug.