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Wireless modem and networking.

Corpse Cruncher

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Sep 6, 2005
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I am going to seem like I am prehistoric.

While searching around for a graphic tablet I came across a new world of goodies. One being Wireless modems and networking. Not that I understand what these are exactly. As my modem is prone to throwing tantrums and refuses to talk to anybody, I am considering changing it.

I am at last on broadband, it finally arrived. Now what I would like is a good modem that I can network. Caballed networking is not an option so wireless is my preference.

I noticed there seems to be two speed a normal 54 and some super 108(?)802.11b/g modems with routers and router without modems. :confused:

I would like something simple to use and does its job and is fast. Your advice is sort and appreciated. But, don't push it by telling me to kidnap an educated computer knowledgeable inspiration in human form and keep him/her locked under the stairs .:D
 
A wireless router will connect directly to your broadband and give all your computers access the the internet and each other (if you configure them right). Currently, I have ISDN, and that forces me to connect through one of the computers, and it does not work well (in fact, currently, for some reason, it does not work at all). That is, the one computer connecting to the internet works fine, but the other two refuse to connect. I have given up and ordered broadband, which is due feb. 6th.

The router has its own firewall, and is a secure way to connect your LAN to the internet, even if yout "LAN" is only one computer using the wireless connection. Rmember to ser it up with encryption, otherwise anybody with a computer and a wirless adapter within 200 yards can connect to your network.

You need not kidnap computer savvy people, they can usually be bribed to help you, sometimes with something as cheap as flattery.

Hans
 
Flattery sounds cheaper to use than the cost of feeding some savvy inspiration locked up. I best practise it, as I know it is lacking and dusty.

Here is the practise are you ready?

Hans, that jumper suits your complexion?
May I say you are looking rather dashing in that striped jumper Hans?
Hans, that is a devil of a wink you have got going there?
Hans you may be short but you are nonetheless perfectly formed?
How did I do?
 
Based on that flattery, I'll give you free advice on computer solutions any time. And at your own risk :D.

Hans
 
As a person using a wireless network at home for the past several years, I might suggest there is little reason to go for the new faster one.

Unless you intend to be constantly transfering large files between the computers on your own network, there is no advantage to the faster one.

Your internet connection speed to your ISP will be much less than your standard wireless router is capable of handling. So the extra speed won't get used when sufing the internet.

If I had to get another wireless router, I'd stick with the proven technology of the slower model. Especially if it is cheaper.
 
I think they are all cheap, nowadays. But, no reason to change what you have if it performs satisfactory.

Hans
 
As Hans says, if what you have works for you then stick with it. If you're buying new I would probably stick with the 802.11/g models (the ones claiming 54Mbps). They're backward compatible with 802.11/b and usually offer the better WPA security.

The models that offer over 54Mbps are usually proprietary and require all your wireless equipment come from them in order to work (at the higher speeds, they usually have backwards compatability for slower speeds).

Somebody mentioned security. You'll probably have several options including WEP and WPA. WPA is better. If you are offered WPA2 try that, it's even better.

Also change the default password on the router immediately.

Typically when setting up wireless I'll start with no encryption, make sure everything is working. Then implement encryption. Makes it easier to troubleshoot.
 
If you're buying new, Andy from "Call For Help" - G4TechTV ran some tests on MIMO wireless routers awhile back. I recall them emphasizing the SRX type. Check out their show tips if you'd like, here is the link: http://www.callforhelptv.com/callforhelp/extremetips/0236A.shtml

Also you may want to check out Steve Gibson's site, especially the "Shields Up" section to test your computer security. Everything should come up as STEALTH. Just follow the online instructions.
http://www.grc.com/SecurityNow.htm#23 Security Now show
https://www.grc.com/x/ne.dll?bh0bkyd2 Shields Up Test
 
My experience with wireless is that it can be incredibly flaky.

A recent work project to connect a Linksys router to other brands of Access points, for example, wasted many valuable days time for several people. I had never seen the simple act of turning on a D-Link Access point crash a Linksys router that had up till then be working reasonably well.

A Dlink router at the same place that was used to connect to ADSL would regularly 'gum up', and need to be manually rebooted about once a day.

My current setup seems to work ok, with four computers connected remotely, one on a LAN cable, to a wireless router, that connects the broadband cable internet.

Having a router reduces the chance of windows being infected by viruses incredilby.

Wireless, when it is working and stable, is fine, although not as fast as a cable connection.

If you plan to share files between computers, you will need the 'G'.

There is a new standard coming out that promises much better reliablity, range and throughput. Belkin I know has it's own 'pre standard release' product for sale. How compatible this will be with the released standard and other manufacturers equipment, though, is anyones guess.

My own Dlink wireless router is working fine now, (after a call to Dlink suport and downloading a patch wich is not available on their web site).

Without the patch, it would 'hang' about three times a week. The wireless cards in the PCs are Belking, both b and g. They both work fine. (Once again, with the latest drivers from the Belkin Web Site).

You do want to think about the distances involved, and any potential interference. For example, the frequency 'G' works at can clash with digital cordless phones. Walls, fridges, wiring, etc, can degrade a signal very quickly.

I can quite confidently predict it will all work in the end, the question is, how long it will take to make it all work. It may be very simple, then again, it may not be.
 
Corpse Cruncher. I switched from a cabled network to wifi over a year ago. Simple and with no subsequent problems.
2 caveats-
1. Use Windows XP. It is far easier to set up reliable wifi networking than any earlier version. If you are a Mac or Linux user there may be other arguments.
2. If you live in a house with internal brick or stone walls , you may have problems getting a signal from your router modem to PCs in rooms some distance away.

As Hans says, your "network" may consist of one computer. (Though in that case you would gain nothing by going wifi instead of cabled). I have a pc and a laptop. The advantage of wifi is I can use the laptop in the kitchen , or in bed if I want. (Makes a damn fine bed warmer).
I use a Linksys 802.11g router modem which works fine.

If buying from a store, make sure you actually get a router modem. Some times these can be sold as separate items - so you need a router and a modem.

Also, you may prefer to have the RM physically by the main pc, in which case it's just as easy to connect the RM and the pc by a short ethernet cable, so get an RM that has at least one ethernet port. This may seem to negate the whole idea, but you will have wire-free access to all other machines on the network.
DO note Hans' warning. When setting up the RM (you need a few details from your ISP) make sure you password encrypt access to your network.

The kids across the street from my girlfriend's house have neglected this elementary step which means she could use their broadband connection if she was so inclined.
 
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Well, wireless is an advantage in a one computer net if the one computer is a laptop. Personally, I have two stationaries and a laptop (which ought to suffice, since we are two perons in the houshold ;)).

The staionaries are hard-wired, and, of course, the labtop runs wirelss. One stationary runs XP, the others run Win98. This gives a few quirks, but can work. Printer-sharing is hairy. Seems you need to install a printer locally on each computer, then put it back on the printer host and assign it as a network printer.

Hans
 
Yeh... my keybroad keeps getting more and more non-deterministic...

Hans
 
That has given me some food for thought. A printer is about the only item I might share. Then again, saving what I want printed to disk and taking it upstairs to be printed, isn't such a biggie and keeps me fit.
 
Serenity said:
If you're buying new, Andy from "Call For Help" - G4TechTV ran some tests on MIMO wireless routers awhile back. I recall them emphasizing the SRX type.
Click to expand...
I just installed a wireless network at my place of employment. Used a Linksys WRT54GX4 which is the SRX, but it's the NEW and IMPROVED model! I was worried about range and throughput with brickwalls and distance as my enemy. The perfromance is excellent. Distance and throughput are not a problem, longest run is 200+ feet through two brickwalls. Running 15 computers on that network, only problem is multiple brands and ages of computers makes for some hardware problems mixing older PC's and newer wireless PCI cards.

I have a Dlink DI-624 at home that perfromed well for awhile, but resets while a wireless client is on, not while I am connected via wired. Moving to the WRT54GX4 this weekend.
 
Soapy Sam said:
If buying from a store, make sure you actually get a router modem. Some times these can be sold as separate items - so you need a router and a modem.
Click to expand...

You have to be very careful here about what type of modem you're talking about. Frequently you do NOT need a combined router modem.

On broadband:
DSL modem, Cable modem. If provided to you by your broadband ISP you can just get a router (or more technically accurate a firewall). These provide an ethernet WAN port that you plug into the provided DSL/Cable modem's network port.

Many broadband providers will not allow you to connect your own modem to their network and have scanners in place to shutdown non-compliant connections.

A stand-alone 4-port DLink router will cost around $40. A DLink router+ADSL modem runs $90. A Dlink router+cable modem runs around $70. Why spend the extra money?

On dial-up:
I've seen very few routers+dial-up modem. My own D-Link has a serial port for connecting an external modem (for backup of the WAN port) but it does not have a modem integrated with the router. Even the serial port option costs a bit more. I went with my router because it allows me to VPN into my home network when I'm travelling.

Also printer sharing was mentioned. If you don't want to go to the hassle of setting up printer sharing on another computer, you can buy a router that offers printer sharing. Again, more expensive than the standard models but beats buying another computer. Make sure it'll work with your printer. Some printers won't work with these routers.
 
Corpse Cruncher said:
That has given me some food for thought. A printer is about the only item I might share. Then again, saving what I want printed to disk and taking it upstairs to be printed, isn't such a biggie and keeps me fit.
Click to expand...

We recently replaced a wonky scanner and a wacky printer (when you canceled a print job it would respond by spitting several sheets of paper with one line of gibberish on the top) with a network capable "all-in-one". It is hardwired to the wireless capable router.

Prior to that, anyone on the network COULD print from their computer (another hardwired plus four laptops), but the computer it was attached to had to be on. Along as the computer is on and hooked to the network, you do not have to really go upstairs (except to get your printout, or to replace paper).

The biggest difference with the new printer/scanner/etc is that it is seperate from a computer and no one has to make sure the desktop next to it is on (also, it can act as a copier without any computer turned on).
 
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