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Hojo Motor: WTF?

First they tell me to look at the schematics.

I link to the files on the original website so I am not copying anything illegal:

HoJoMotor_C.jpg


and

HoJoMotor_E.jpg


and

HoJoMotor_G.jpg



and

HoJoMotor_I.jpg



So we need to study that, apparently.

Next I will post the list of the parts we need.

I can already see that it is a good thing I enlisted your help, because, for the life of me, I can't get a good idea what I am supposed to do here.
 
Here are the dimensions of the parts:

Aluminum Disc
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Diameter. 452mm (Cut from a 18 x 18 aluminum plate
from the local sheet metal shop).
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Thickness. 3.2mm
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Grade suggested is 1100 or 3003. These are the most
common grades and are available anywhere.
Bearing Assembly
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Polycarbonate disc 9.5mm x 127mm dia. Drilled to
receive a Nylon sleeve (Cut from a 12 inch square sheet of
9.5mm polycarbonate from US Plastic)
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Nylon sleeve. 12.6mm OD, 9.4mm ID A bearing is
inserted in each end of sleeve. (Local hardware store)
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Bearings. 2 Flange ball bearing. 9.4mm OD 6.5mm ID
3.2mm thick. (Hobby town) Polycarbonate plate holding
the bearings is bolteds to Aluminum Disc.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Another identical Poly disc is drilled to receive the shaft.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Shaft is 6.5mm brass rod, 28mm long. (Hobby town)
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Poly plate holding the shaft is bolted to the base.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT][FONT=&quot]A dozen 1/4 inch nylon or aluminum bolts. (Home Depot)

[/FONT] Base
A slab of anything large enough to accommodate the rotor with
a little extra to hold the stator supports.
Stator Assembly
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Two inch x 2 feet aluminum bar drilled on each end to
allow a 1/4 inch bolt to slip into it.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]1.375 Dia. cast acrylic rod. (US Plastic) drilled and
threaded on both ends to receive 2 inch by 1/4 inch
threaded Nylon or aluminum bolt. Bolted to the base. (Cut
off the head of the top bolts to allow the bar to be
attached.)
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Two 1/4 inch wing nuts. (Home Depot)
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Vertically adjustable Stator Mechanism was built to slide
along the bar using trimmings from the aluminum rotor.
There is more to building this than just having the parts, but
this should be most everything…
 
Something about tooling:

Screws
All screws in the assembly should be non-magnetic. You will
need 3 to fasten bearing assembly to rotor disc; and 4-10 to
fasten stator assembly.
Glue
It’s an important principle that the magnets should touch the
aluminum if possible. Hence the use of hot glue is probably not
a good idea as it creates too much of an insulating factor
between the magnets and the aluminum.
•Crazy Glue for gluing the magnets to the aluminum.
•Super Glue for gluing the rubber feet to the bearing base
and the stator assembly feet.

Razor Blades
You will need something like a razor blade to scrape off the
Crazy Glue when you remove magnets to adjust them, or when
they fall off for some reason.
 
And some tips:

If you want to build the Howard Johnson’s Magnetic Motor but
want to simplify his design try these recommendations:
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use an aluminum rotor disc lined around the
circumference with bar magnets arranged like railroad
ties.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]The rotor magnets are nominally evenly spaced, but stay
away from exact measurements. *Think chaos theory and
the variance of nature.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]You can experiment with a set of 6 magnets or more
(some successful simplified versions of Johnson’s motor
use two sets of 18 magnets).
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Use magnets all the way around except for one spot,
which can be necessary for the flux effect to work.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]The polarity of these magnets is through the thickness, not
the length; and N is up.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]The second key ingredient for this motor is a set of two
offset stator (stationary) magnets, which are suspended by
an aluminum stator assembly. These are polarized N-S
across the two legs.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]The stator magnets are arranged such that they point
down to the rotor magnets, with one polarity leading and
the other trailing.
The polarity of the two off-set stator magnets have N on
the same side, and S on the other side, and that they are
not N-S; S-N in their relationship.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]The speed of operation is apparently in proportional to the
magnet strength and perhaps to the distance between the
stator and the rotor magnets (though the latter may be
more a matter of going in/out of sync). If you are going to
use stronger magnets, you’ll need to build your assembly
more sturdy.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Your magnets must be secure but when you are building
and testing you can use his Crazy Glue to attach them, to
make it easy to adjust things in the process of finding an
optimal arrangement. They will come unglued fairly easy,
whether from banging into something, or from the
centripetal force of high rotation speeds, or from being
pulled into the stator magnet.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]The horizontal width of the two offset stator magnets,
including the gap between them (positioned pointing
down at the rotor bar magnets) is approximately the same
as the horizontal length of the rotor bar magnets
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Some have also successfully used the bottom of the stator
magnet and positioned it level with the bottom of the top
lip of the rotor magnet.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]While others nearly put it level with the rotor magnet. The
higher elevation apparently works better from tests.
 
Now for the assembly instructions, and that, in combination with the plans is where I will be needing your help for real guys! Don't let me down.

Once you have completed the assembly steps, you are ready to
operate the motor!
Position the rotor assembly on a nominally flat surface with at
least 6 inches of free space around it. Give yourself plenty of
room. Make sure there are not any magnetic objects in the
vicinity.
Bring the stator assembly into place so that the stator magnets
are situated directly over the center of a rotor magnet length.
Turn the rotor so it is at the beginning of a row of magnets. The
stator should pull the rotor magnets by, with enough flywheel
and small enough cog to make it to the next set
of magnets, where the effect is repeated, gradually accelerating
until an equilibrium speed is reached.
If your generator doesn’t work for some reason:
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Try changing the distance between individual magnets.
Make sure you have some non-symmetry there.
•[FONT=&quot] [/FONT]Try changing the numbers of magnets per set.
Moreover, the disc diameter is probably not a highly crucial
component, but changing it will require finding the proper
spacing of magnets to work with the different circumference.
You could try tighter circumferences just by scribing a line on
your rotating disc as a reference point.
You should try to go with weaker magnets for this replication.
Stronger magnets will require better engineering to prevent
detachment of the rotor magnets.
You do not want to seek uniformly magnetized magnets for the
[FONT=&quot]rotor magnet. *Remember, non-symmetry is a key here.[/FONT]
 
realpaladin said:
So let's have ourselves a build-off, shall we?
Click to expand...

I finished mine this morning. I've been stickin' it to the man (does that make me gay?) since 8:32AM local time. Tomorrow I start assembly of the 10 petawatt version.
 
Why use magnets?

Couldn't you merely line up a zillion dominoes close to each other and then knock down the first one? Imagine the energy that could be harvested from the motion of all those dominoes suddenly falling over.
 
quarky said:
Why use magnets?

Couldn't you merely line up a zillion dominoes close to each other and then knock down the first one? Imagine the energy that could be harvested from the motion of all those dominoes suddenly falling over.
Click to expand...

The other advantage to your plan is that with a zillion of them, there will be time to set up the first ones again before the falling wave reaches the end. I like it.
 
Ladewig said:
The other advantage to your plan is that with a zillion of them, there will be time to set up the first ones again before the falling wave reaches the end. I like it.
Click to expand...

Thanks.

I'm working on the drawings.
 
quarky said:
Thanks.

I'm working on the drawings.
Click to expand...

Please make them very clear... the sentence 'non-symmetry is the key' is giving me headaches in the Hojo plans.... how much and what non-symmetry do I have to achieve?

So please draw each domino and the exact distance to it's precursor.
 
non-symmetry is the same thing as not quite accurate measurements.
It works well for inventors without measuring devices.
 
I'm glad the plans make the distinction between *crazy* glue for the magnets and *super* glue for the rubber feet. Don't swap the glues or it won't work!
 
ben m said:
I'm glad the plans make the distinction between *crazy* glue for the magnets and *super* glue for the rubber feet. Don't swap the glues or it won't work!
Click to expand...

So the list is
Don't swap the glues
Don't cross the streams
Don't high hat the monkey.
 
Mojo Jojo sez: The HoJo motor is a scam! Don't irritate super genius evil monkey!

Besides which, the plan calls for wingnuts. That should say it all.
 
Guys, I honestly gave all the instructions I got from Hojo... but it seems the 'insert widget F into slot B then turn hoojimahm A all around and high 5 the cows that came home' instructions are missing.

Anyone on this thread working for IKEA? Maybe then we could flatpack this thing and just use the supplied gadget.

Btw. I emailed them to ask why they don't sell kits. Let's see what we get back.
 
Ah, those pesky laws...
I see thermodynamics more as a general fashion guideline than as the omnipresent harbinger of bad news.

As per the non-symmetry thingy?
That's a tough one. I used to lay stone patios with uncut rock; random 'patterns', so to speak.

Well, what is a random pattern?
Have you ever tried to arrange a pile of sticks as if they had been accidentally knocked off of your night-stand in the wee-wee hours of the night?
Its not that easy. One needs to consider the random coincidence factor. Sometimes, there will be 3 rocks of the same color, right next to each other. Sometimes you have 3 sticks of the same length that fall next to each other.

Attempts at making such events 'appear' to be random gets bogged down with bias from all over the universe.
Plus, why do you even have a pile of sticks on your night stand?
Explain that one for me.
 
Yes, all of that is nice 'n dandy, but in the meantime I am stuck with 10 Kilograms of Neodynium that is too symmetric for making the above engine...

And can anyone decipher from those plans what to do when?
 
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