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120 V or 240 V Mains - which voltage is better?

Load of tosh in red. Try at least to seed some notion that can't be proved false just by reading what is already posted here. The "he said what I want him to have said" doesn't work in written media, though you'll try it just because someone may leave the debate.

Unlike some other words, there's no "semantics" here but essentials. How folks call any system in Oz is just folklore. The link provided by Dabop includes some factual evidence on that: «Thus if you have two active wires and a neutral wire you have two lots of single phase or "two phase"»

It's you psionl0 who doesn't know about power supply but as John Citizen knows it. Now you're looking a few things you might understand in Wiki. Good for you. The bit about "autotransformer" you wrote gives that away, as you couldn't know how to deal with that concept within this discussion, then you threw the fable above.

Anyway, you're browsing wasn't totally useless, as you now can understand why taking 240V and using progressive isolation through steel cores to generate a "240-phase system" of an assortment of voltages averaging 1 volt would be splitting further and not polyphasing.

And charming as it is the people from Oz -except a few-, call a split-phase system that way and avoid using two-phase in a more international setting, like this one.

Certainly here there's someone who tried to take the "two-phase" bit and built it into an electric theory. And, guess who? it was you, psionl0, who'll never budge no matter how wrong he is.


o........k.......
 
The problem isn't "armature stress" either, but smooth operation.

um right.....

it certainly can be a problem - esp in heavy duty motors
It can literally tear the insulation to pieces....

thats why 3 phase motors are common, and 180 deg 2 phase motors much less so- they need to be massively overengineered to survive ie very expensive and much less power than similar sized 3 phase motor
 
It's interesting to compare the (three phase) motors and generators used on aircraft with normal 50 or 60 Hz stationary ones. For the same power rating, the aircraft units are much smaller and lighter.

The reason is that they run at a higher frequency (400 Hz was common at one time - I don't know if that's still a common aircraft frequency). Because the magnetic flux is changing much faster with the higher frequency, the actual flux strength doesn't need to be so high - so the 'iron' (magnetic) circuit of the units can be much smaller and lighter.
 
It used to be difficult to run a three phase motor when you only had a single phase supply. You could rig something up with capacitors - but the capacitors had to be carefully chosen to suit the motor and even then it wasn't very good.

One way of doing it was to use a universal single phase motor mechanically coupled to a three phase motor used as a generator - that worked if you could get the thing to run at the right speed, or you weren't very concerned about the frequency of the three phase that you were generating.

I think there was a sort of hybrid rotary converter that had a commutator one end of the shaft and slip rings at the other with at least some of the windings connected to both. I know they were used to convert AC to DC and vice-versa but I'm unsure whether they could directly convert single phase to multi phase without needing additional windings or slip rings.

Of course, nowadays with microcontroller driven solid state inverters, it's pretty simple to drive a three phase motor from a single phase - providing, of course, that the single phase supply is capable of delivering the required amount of power. Three phase motors are often now driven by inverters even when three phase supply is available - the advantages of being able to vary the running speed and provide soft-start and similar often outweigh the extra cost of the inverter.

Three-phase power was always a matter of medium to high power and saving money. Here in Argentina you have a whole bunch of three-phase inverters to use with solar panels, but the high quality ones cost around 500 euro per Kilowatt, and there's no one that I've seen smaller than 4 Kw. One could use one of them to generate three-phase power from a single-phase or split-phase conventional source but, where's the economy in it? The only reason I see to resource to that is the electric company making you pay for the extra two wires if you're, say, 10 miles from the nearest three-phase line. And yet you could manage just with one extra wire and triángulo abierta if the extra charges from unbalanced charge doesn't make it bad business.
 
You're ignorance in this matter is overwhelming. It won't matter to you that the system is called split-phase and not two-phase (because there are not two phases in it and there never will other but one single phase who is split into two lines)

Hate to disagree again (esp in the one thread) but 180 deg phases in oz were indeed called 2 phase power....
http://www.aussiefrogs.com/forum/te...ats-difference-between-1-2-3-phase-power.html

this explains the various rural supplies and the various ways they could be configured as found in Oz

Load of tosh in red
How folks call any system in Oz is just folklore. The link provided by Dabop includes some factual evidence on that: «Thus if you have two active wires and a neutral wire you have two lots of single phase or "two phase"»


Well I can see what was said......

:jaw-dropp
 
The reason I've been involved with single-phase to three phase conversion is when I've been using factory equipment in my home workshop - or helping friends to do that. Lathes, milling machines and such often have three phase motors - but when you buy an old one and put it in your home workshop, no three phase is available. Sure, you could ask the electricity company to run three phase to your house, but if you only want to run one or two fairly small machines it's usually easier and cheaper to generate your own local three-phase supply from the single phase one already available in your home.
 
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Well I can see what was said......

:jaw-dropp

And what about the other post in it where it's refer as "the so-called two-phase system"?

So far it start to emerge the notion of using "two-phase" in a popular setting as a way to say "don't try to mix them, you'll mess everything up", and not for the scientific value of it.

Fortunately nobody can't mess it up with the so-called "two-phase" as to invert the spin of a motor, what would be so easy to do in a real poly-phasic setting.
 
It's interesting to compare the (three phase) motors and generators used on aircraft with normal 50 or 60 Hz stationary ones. For the same power rating, the aircraft units are much smaller and lighter.

The reason is that they run at a higher frequency (400 Hz was common at one time - I don't know if that's still a common aircraft frequency). Because the magnetic flux is changing much faster with the higher frequency, the actual flux strength doesn't need to be so high - so the 'iron' (magnetic) circuit of the units can be much smaller and lighter.

http://www.fcxinc.com/why-the-aviation-industry-operates-on-400-hz-power/

They still do, and it was because the transformers etc would be much smaller and lighter than if they ran at 50 or 60 Hz
The lower frequency is better for longer runs (not usually an issue on aircraft, not even the Antonov An-225 is THAT big) but obviously weight is a major factor on all planes
 
The reason I've been involved with single-phase to three phase conversion is when I've been using factory equipment in my home workshop - or helping friends to do that. Lathes, milling machines and such often have three phase motors - but when you buy an old one and put it in your home workshop, no three phase is available. Sure, you could ask the electricity company to run three phase to your house, but if you only want to run one or two fairly small machines it's usually easier and cheaper to generate your own local three-phase supply from the single phase one already available in your home.

That's quite true, if you're running those motors for short periods.

Another thing I'd consider here -I don't know if it is the same way elsewhere- is that you have just one metre for one-phase (or two-phase, which is the same thing) and you would have a different metre for three-phase, with duplication of the basic charge, or everything on the three-phase metre. In my country all three-phase metres really measure two phases and multiply by 1.5. They force you to hang your one-phase service to one of the two phases that are measured, so you're instantly paying 150% for your household electricity. Unless you hang your house from the third phase, which is a crime. What means you're either a criminal or an idiot who is paying more than he owes.

In those cases using some capacitors and whatnot to create an inefficient three-phase system that runs one hour a day is the soundest and more economic solution.
 
.... if you only want to run one or two fairly small machines it's usually easier and cheaper to generate your own local three-phase supply from the single phase one already available in your home.
That may be true in the US but here, the cost of a 3 phase meter is only $100 more than that of a single phase meter. Other than that, supply charges are identical.

I doubt that you can get a several kilowatt 3 phase inverter for less than $100.
 
And what about the other post in it where it's refer as "the so-called two-phase system"?

So far it start to emerge the notion of using "two-phase" in a popular setting as a way to say "don't try to mix them, you'll mess everything up", and not for the scientific value of it.

Fortunately nobody can't mess it up with the so-called "two-phase" as to invert the spin of a motor, what would be so easy to do in a real poly-phasic setting.


And further down again, the poster you mentioned says....

Roger said:
Hello Rob,

We have discussed this in the past, perhaps in the drill press thread (now deceased in the GAFC).

480v supply may not exist in theory in Victoria but it does exist in practice. I have 2 actives and a neutral coming from the transformer at the road to my meter box, and before the installation of a 3 phase smart meter I had a 2 phase spinning disc meter for the farm supply(it was labelled "2 phase 3 wire"). If you go out to the 480v power point on the workshop wall you will measure 480v across its active and neutral terminals. If you measure any of the 240v point points you will find 240v. I have measured it with my Fluke 87. You are welcome to call in with your own meter and see for yourself. You could look at the plates on the electric motors and read the labels saying 240/480v.
note the bolded and underlined
 
Speaking of the 240V/120V three-wire, single-phase, mid-point neutral system used in the US ....

Shortly after I came home from work one afternoon, half the electricity went out in my house. It was very bizarre. Some kitchen appliances were working. Others weren't. There didn't seem to be any logic to what was working and what wasn't.

Even though I have (or should have had) enough knowledge of electrical systems to understand what was happening, with my house seemingly dying around me, my brain wasn't working right.

I called the power company thinking they could, at least, tell me who could fix the problem. One of the selections in the phone menu was "If only one half of your power is out in your home, press ...." Oh ... That's when I realized what must have happened.

In less than an hour, the power company had a service truck at our house. The technician installed some device that attached to our electrical meter sort of like the face-sucking creature in the Alien movie. It restored power to my house until, a few days later, a connection in the box by the curb was repaired.
 
Speaking of the 240V/120V three-wire, single-phase, mid-point neutral system used in the US ....

Shortly after I came home from work one afternoon, half the electricity went out in my house. It was very bizarre. Some kitchen appliances were working. Others weren't. There didn't seem to be any logic to what was working and what wasn't.

Even though I have (or should have had) enough knowledge of electrical systems to understand what was happening, with my house seemingly dying around me, my brain wasn't working right.

I called the power company thinking they could, at least, tell me who could fix the problem. One of the selections in the phone menu was "If only one half of your power is out in your home, press ...." Oh ... That's when I realized what must have happened.

In less than an hour, the power company had a service truck at our house. The technician installed some device that attached to our electrical meter sort of like the face-sucking creature in the Alien movie. It restored power to my house until, a few days later, a connection in the box by the curb was repaired.
Interesting- it must have been basically a miniature 2:1 transformer, but being used as a step UP transformer- ie it was pulling mega amps through the still working phase, stepping the voltage up and then backfeeding it into the defunct phase
I bet the wires leading in from the street on that working phase were running a tad 'warm' lol (as before halving the voltage means doubling the current, so instead of your stove pulling 20a @240v, it was using the transformer and pulling 40A through the working 110v phase.... as an example- actual figures would of course be different, but always twice the rated current on the ratings plate)
 
Interesting- it must have been basically a miniature 2:1 transformer, but being used as a step UP transformer- ie it was pulling mega amps through the still working phase, stepping the voltage up and then backfeeding it into the defunct phase
A 1:1 transformer with its secondary winding reversed would be all you need to get the "defunct phase" working. (You could even use a centre tapped auto transformer :D) You would just connect the primary across the working side.
 
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Lots of factory control systems in the UK run at 110V AC. The idea is that it's safer even though it involves the extra hassle of 240V (or 400V) to 110V transformers.

Unfortunately there are two different ways of doing it that causes much confusion, blown fuses and cursing when connecting different systems together.

One system is to have a centre-tapped transformer with the centre-tap connected to ground and two anti-phase wires of 55V AC each. Very similar to the two-wire 220V USA system. This has the advantage of a lower voltage from any wire to ground - and voltages below 60V used to be considered safe enough that you could touch them without getting a noticeable shock (assuming you weren't standing in a pool of salt water or similar) so you didn't even need to worry too much about shrouding terminals and similar inside control cabinets.

The drawback of this 55V - 0 - 55V idea is that you have to put fuses in both of the 55V wires. When a fuse blows and a panel is apparently 'dead' the other fuse often hasn't blown so you often get people tinkering around trying to find the fault when they suddenly surprise themselves by shorting the remaining wire to ground with the accompanying sparks and curse words!

So the more common system now is to have a single 110V winding on the transformer, connect one side of it to ground, and then you have a more dangerous 110V to ground on the other wire, but you only have to fuse that one wire and when the fuse does blow, the circuit is then really dead and safe to work on until the fuse is replaced even when the maintenance engineers forget to throw the isolator.

As I say - the problems really arise when you have to connect one 110V centre-tapped panel to another single-ended one. It's quite common to see banks of 110V coil relays whose sole function is to convert between the two varieties of 110V signal!
 
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That may be true in the US but here, the cost of a 3 phase meter is only $100 more than that of a single phase meter. Other than that, supply charges are identical.

I doubt that you can get a several kilowatt 3 phase inverter for less than $100.
In the US there might not be 3 phase available in residential areas for miles. In a small shop, generating your own is often the only economically viable choice.

It cost me around $2000usd to bring it to my shop from around 1/4 mile away.
 
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