Cruise Port Tours.. A Full Report

Jeff Wagg

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AMAZING ADVENTURE 8/28/2006 BERMUDA TRIANGLE
Port Advice

Greetings to all. Jeff has asked Gina and I to say a few words on shore excursions for our upcoming adventure. All that follows is from personal experiences and preferences. We may like chocolate, you may like strawberry so I’ll try to keep it as generic as possible.

I see that Royal Caribbean is having a problem with the shore excursion segment of their web site, so I cannot be sure exactly what they’re offering on our particular cruise.

As a rule, we don’t take ship organized tours unless it’s something that would be difficult or uncomfortable to do ourselves. Some activities require using the ship’s services. Most activities can be done on your own. We’ll just try to tell you our experiences.




KEY WEST - ships usually dock right downtown. This is a small, artsy town. You could walk the whole downtown area in an hour. We have never taken a tour here, although the Conch Train gives you a pretty thorough city tour. Conch Train tickets can be purchased in Mallory Square for about $1.00 less than on the ship, but I believe the train comes right to the ship for tour pick-up. Sights that are worth seeing and can be walked to are (not in any particular order) Mel Fisher’s Treasure Museum, Harry Truman’s winter White House, The Audubon House, Hemingway’s home, and a great little sandal factory called Kino’s. Having read some of the remarks on the forum, we should perhaps point out Sloppy Joe’s Bar (Hemingway’s REAL home) and Jimmy Buffet’s Margaritaville. I think you can even get tequila toilet paper there.

If they offer kayaking, fishing or any other outdoor activities that require transportation, then by all means book those on the ship.

Bottom line is that Key West is a laid back island that’s geared toward tourists.

COZUMEL - we have been told that the ship will dock at the only pier remaining after last year’s horrendous hurricane. This dock is about 1.5 miles from downtown and is serviced by swarms of taxis, all set on fixed rates. A ride downtown is $5.00 American per cab, which will hold four passengers uncomfortably. There are only two tours here of any consequence. Remembering the hurricane, I’m not sure that the “swim with the dolphins” is up and running, but, animal rights and all that stuff aside, it was one of the most popular tours there. So popular that tourists visiting the island and staying in hotels have a hard time getting space as the cruise ships were selling everything available. Sheer exploitation but very profitable.

The number one tour to take would be Tulum / Xel-Ha. This is an all day trip across to the Mexican mainland for some wonderful Mayan/Aztec (not sure which) ruins and a tropical water park that is really beautiful. WARNING – if you take this tour you will not see anything of Cozumel. Be sure to bring water and sunscreen as Tulum is out in the open and is searing hot. If electing to stay on Cozumel, please keep in mind the rebuilding and that not all shops are open. The two things to occupy your time are beaches and shopping/lunch.

Cozumel is a snorkeler’s paradise. Crystal clear waters and a profundity of multi colored fish make this a great experience. The best spot is Chankanaab National Park. It had not reopened when I last checked (May 15). The latest reviews on websites are from before the hurricane, so I’m just not sure if it’s open. It’s a fantastic nature sight with gardens, live iguanas, nature walks, and a dive shop that rents snorkels, masks and fins. The snorkeling is the best I’ve ever done (and that includes Thailand). There was a very good reataurant right on the water, thatched roof around coconut trees with ice cold Mexican beer. Located south of the pier, it’s about a $10 cab ride one way. There is an entrance fee. Best bet for a beach (Chankanaab is located on coral, no sand to speak of) would be
San Francisco Beach or Paradise Beach, located right next to each other just beyond Chankanaab, same $10 cab ride. Both beaches have changing rooms (or they did before the storm) and a small bar for beer and cold drinks.

Our other option is shopping and lunch in San Miguel. The best shopping is on the street that parallels the water. Our favorite shop is Los Soles Cincos, which is the last large shop as you travel away from the ship. Silver, leather goods, tequila, the ubiquitous Mexican blanket, Kahlua, vanilla – all at fairly reasonable prices. Favorite restaurant is Las Palmeiras, located right across the street from the ferry to Playa del Carmen. YES – you can eat the food here and TWO margaritas are TOO much!

Best source of information as to what has reopened on Cozumel would be staff on the ship, not necessarily the shore excursion staff. Personnel from the shops on board would probably give you a clearer picture as they are there every week and don’t need to sell you anything. We have booked a kayaking experience for ourselves.

We’ve always enjoyed Cozumel, particularly the local people. Friendly folks, good beaches, shopping and food.

COCO CAY - BAHAMAS

The only port in which we are not scheduled to dock. You will be transported to the island by tender, a small boat that comes out from the island to meet the ship. Access to the tender is by ticket. Information on obtaining tender tickets will be announced over the loud speakers, continuously. There is absolutely no need to be the first one on the island. A leisurely breakfast is in order. All types of activities are for sale including parasailing, Wave Runners, Banana Boats, and all other types of water sport. It does not cost anything to laze on the beach (there is some shade) and eat lunch from the barbeque created for your pleasure. (If you want to lay on the beach.. keep walking. Get away from the ship, and you'll find deserted beaches.)

We are looking forward to meeting all of you. Please feel free to email with any specific questions – absocruise@gmail.com

Gina and Joe
ABSOLUTELY CRUISING!
 
Key West

Here's my post from early April, about Key West. With some four months' perspective, I don't see any (much) need to alter anything. However, at the time, I didn't realize that "Jeff's suggested activities" were actually a past from the Royal Carribean site, so translate accordingly.​

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Anyway, we were in Key West, the ship's first port of call, only about five weeks ago. Given the cruise itinerary, and our own recent experiences, Jeff's suggested activities may need some amendment. For openers, and above all, take note of our schedule; we will be in Key West a total of seven hours, from 7 AM to 2 PM, and things don't even open for the tourists until 8 or 9 in the morning reducing touring time to five or six hours.


The One Thing You Don't Want to Miss
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Enjoy the pleasures of a glass-bottom boat on a unique and informative eco-tour of the only living coral reef in the continental United States.
The reef is ~6 miles off-shore, and the boat ride is 45 minutes each way, plus maybe half an hour on scene. That's two hours out of your seven (or five), not including the time waiting to get aboard (maybe another half hour). Plus, it runs on its own schedule, not yours, so this may well be the only activity you have time for. Additionally, your enjoyment is subject to the sea state, which can roil both your stomach and the sea bottom, either one of which can drastically reduce your view of the reef. Been there, done that.

I'm not saying don't go, I'm just suggesting this be further down the list than Jeff has placed it, and you should think carefully before buying a ticket.

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Other Fun Things to Do
Take a traditional trolley tour through historic Key West.

There's the Trolley, and there's the Conch Train. The trolley is more-or-less a narrated bus ride from one end of the island to the other (ETA maybe 2/3 of the island is a landfill, and is all modern construction -- no need at all to go there). The Train is a chain of wagons which runs on a narrated 90-minute tour of Old Town, describing the history, people, architecture and odd local facts. The trains run continuously, and are, to my mind, the true "Must See" attraction. For newbies, I suggest you make this your first activity, with map in hand.

Discover the real Key West as you make your way through the lazy back streets on a bike-tour adventure.

According to the Conch Train guides, the people who rent bikes and scooters are the major cause of accidents on the island. Key West is only 14 city blocks wide, and most of the attractions are at the harbor end; do everyone a favor and walk.

Board the schooner Liberty for a relaxing sail around Key West Harbor.

Didn't try this one, but it left the dock half an hour before the glass-bottom boat tour, and returned slightly later than we did. See my comments about time. I have no idea why it flies the Hard Rock Cafe flag.

Take a stroll through Key West's famed historic homes and gardens. Admire Casa Antigua, the former residence of Ernest Hemingway. Built in 1931, it was once a hotel, then was later rebuilt as a private home. It contains the largest courtyard in Key West.

The Hemingway house is truly interesting and amazingly fun. The guides are excellent and the grounds are gorgeous. Once you've paid your admission, you are also free to wander and linger at will. Check out the Hemingwayhome.com page. We spent a couple of hours here, and intend to go back.

Absorb the local charm on a stroll down Duval Street, lined with quaint shops, cafés and restaurants.

The "local charm" is considerably alcoholic. I suggest limiting your imbibing to Sloppy Joe's, and perhaps Captain Tony's (both Hemingway haunts, although Captain Tony only moved in after Sloppy Joe moved the urinals to their present location, a few doors away and around the corner -- Hemingway followed the urinals).

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Sporting Adventures

I'm not into these. However, remember to take your watch.

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Shopping for Bargains
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Shopping in Key West is like no other shopping experience in the world. Key West prides itself on an eclectic array of shops, including famous diamond stores, a cat and dog boutique, artists' markets, butterfly art, key-lime treats, luxurious aloe skin-care products, souvenirs that change color in the sun and pearls from around the world. While in Key West, shop for renowned jewelry from sunken treasures, unique clothing and a wide variety of souvenirs.

Dunno about the "Bargains," a lot of Key West was pretty high-priced. It certainly is eclectic, however, with everything from Cuban flags to real gold doubloons being available.

Anyway, my own suggestion for a Key West itinerary (considering both our schedule and the probable weather at that season) is as follows:
  1. From the ship, and map in hand for orientation, saunter the 14 blocks down Duval Street to the Southernmost Point and spend some time taking pictures of tourists taking pictures of other tourists standing next to the marker. (ETA This should kill the 2 hours between being let off the ship and when everything opens, and gets most of the walking done during the coolest part of the day)
  2. Right around the corner is the Butterfly Conservatory, a huge greenhouse with thousands of free-flying butterflies. It's an amazing experience. Make sure your camera has macro focusing.
  3. There are a couple of "Mile 0" markers at the end of US 1, just a couple of blocks away. These are reputedly the most-stolen signs in the USA; the Conch Train guides can tell you the correct socket-wrench size, if you're feeling particularly brave. ETA If you're not, the souvenir shops all sell thousands of replicas.
  4. The Lighthouse and the Hemingway house are ~halfway back to the ship. The Hemingway gift shop has specially-imprinted copies of the books Hemingway wrote on-site.
  5. Immediately upon returning to the north end of Duval Street, get on-board the Conch Train for the 90-minute tour.
After that, you're on your own. Just be prepaired for a lot of tipping, in addition to admission charges. It appears that most (all?) guides, boat captains and such are unsalaried, or are paid minimum-wage. I suggest stocking up on 1s and 5s before leaving the ship.

PS: The 14-block walk down Duval quite literally takes you from the Gulf of Mexico to the Atlantic.
 
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