I have only bypassed the fuses of the gear plugged into Premier Power Plant.
The Premier Power Plant regulates voltage, not current. The user's manual and specifications say nothing about providing individual current limitation or individual over-current protection to its power circuits. That's what the fuses in the gear are supposed to do!
The PPP does have a master circuit breaker. So what? The electrical outlets in your home have circuit breakers too --
I hope -- and yet, the equipment manufacturers still put individual fuses in each device. Why do you think they do that?
Look, here's the thing. I'm not saying you have to be a wimp. I understand taking risks and breaking rules. I do it myself. I do my own home wiring. I do my own electronics repair, which sometimes means testing live circuits. I regard every "no user serviceable parts inside" label as a joke.
What I don't do is when taking a risk, I don't deliberately defeat the backup systems protecting me from the consequences of that very same risk! When I do home wiring, I know that I'm not as experienced at it as a professional electrician, so I follow the electrical code even more rigorously and with larger safety margins than the professional would. If the code says "at least two inches clearance" I make it four. I also meter-check for shorts before repowering the panel, which a pro, confident of not making any wiring errors, might not bother to do. When I have to test live electronic gear, I double-check the chassis ground continuity first and I make sure I'm not grounded myself.
Your carbon-fiber fabric is a serious risk. Engineers who design the arrangement of components inside a device know that some components put out heat when in operation. To allow for this they include heat sinks, air spaces for convective heat transfer, and ventilation. All of which are defeated by wrapping those components in polyester-and-carbon-fiber fabric.
The danger you're flirting with is called "thermal runaway." A component that produces heat, that cannot transfer its heat to its surroundings fast enough (say, because it's been wrapped up in fabric), will get hotter. A component that's running hotter often has to "work harder" to do its job. For instance, heat can change the magnetic permeability of a transformer core, making it less efficient and therefore causing it to produce even more heat.
Normally, this effect is balanced by the fact that when a component gets hotter, its higher temperature increases the rate of heat transfer to its surroundings. Where the curve of temperature vs. heat transfer rate crosses the curve of temperature vs. heat output rate, an equilibrium temperature is reached. However, if those curves never intersect (say, because the component has been wrapped up in fabric), it just keeps getting hotter instead, until something fails (e.g. ignites or melts). That's thermal runaway.
The mathematics of thermal runaway are nonlinear. It's possible for the first few degrees of temperature rise to take hours, then the whole thing heats up to failure in a few minutes.
If that's a risk you're willing to take to make your sound sound better, fine. But taking out the fuses is piling risk on top of risk. It's the difference between doing a risky trapeze acrobatic move, and doing it without a net. If you don't have a readily positioned fire extinguisher and smoke detector as I recommended, then it's like doing it without a net and with sharp spikes on the ground. If you live in an apartment, then it's like doing it without a net, with the spikes, with several innocent little babies strapped to your body.
Smoke detector.
Fire extinguisher, rated A/C or A/B/C.
Put. The. Fuses. Back.
I checked; it turns out you can buy gold-plated fuses. I was hoping there might be a business opportunity there for you. Buy case loads of fuses for a few pennies each, send them to a gold plating shop for a few more pennies each, then sell them to your fellow audio buffs, who are struggling with the same problem of fuse noise, for $10 or $20 each.
Actually there might still be a business opportunity, buying already-gold-plated fuses, which are apparently used mostly by yachters and car stereo buffs, and selling them into your market at a premium. Even better, go to the fuse manufacturer and ask whether they could manufacture a vibration-resistant fuse. If they say "yes, but they'd cost a lot," you're in business. If they say, "what do you mean, fuses aren't affected by vibration," all the better: you can now market
the very same fuses as "vibration-resistant, recommended for high-end audio" at an even bigger markup. (If you price them at $189.00 each, people will know they're getting something special, and they'll be better able to hear the improvement in their sound.)
There, I've taught you some Simple Physics that you'd probably overlooked, saved you and possibly others from a horrible death by electrocution or fire, and given you the key to riches as a bonus. My good deed for today is done. (Yay, I can now go out and sin for the rest of the day!)
Respectfully,
Myriad
