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120 V or 240 V Mains - which voltage is better?

I know that it's made 3 phase 120 degrees apart, so if you have 240 two phase power, it's 120 degrees apart, not 180.
 
I know that it's made 3 phase 120 degrees apart, so if you have 240 two phase power, it's 120 degrees apart, not 180.

You should understand what polyphase is in this context before reaching any conclusion.

A 240V two phase power 120 degrees apart is the three-phase system called in Spanish "triángulo abierta" that I mentioned above. When I translate it into "open delta" -which is the right translation of the concept in the name- it seems to refer to a different thing.
 
I think it's rare these days, but 208V three phase with a neutral provides a convenient 120V from each phase to the neutral. Very early in my engineering career I actually got to design a machine for that. We could eliminate the usual transformer to provide 120V for the control circuitry.
 
Ok. So you are wiring up a 50 amp 220v circuit for, say, an electric oven with I would assume 14 gauge, and passing inspection per NEC? I hope you'll forgive me for not continuing this argument.

ETA: we were talking about wiring for 240v household appliances (stoves, water heaters, dryers, etc.). All obviously high wattage draw. While you are right on the watt calc, it was irrelevant to the subject of 240v household appliances. They are all high wattage, and in construction terms automatically high amperage.
That's not what he's saying. In my shop I have 10 amp and 20 amp 220v circuits that run with 14 and 12 gauge wire running small machines.

The amount of (expected) draw determines the wire size.
 
As we dont work with these 'gauge' wires, I would have to consult google to find out what size they actually are, but I can state with 100% accuracy, and I'll support with links, that if you want the same load (stated in watts) then it will 100% guaranteed halve the current every time you double the voltage

(what is the NEC- I assume from your comment it is some kind of regulatory body in the US???)- The only NEC I have come across here makes cash registers and the like, and altho the power companies certainly have no qualms about taking my cash, I doubt they have much to do with the wiring codes...)

;-)
 
As we dont work with these 'gauge' wires, I would have to consult google to find out what size they actually are, but I can state with 100% accuracy, and I'll support with links, that if you want the same load (stated in watts) then it will 100% guaranteed halve the current every time you double the voltage

(what is the NEC- I assume from your comment it is some kind of regulatory body in the US???)- The only NEC I have come across here makes cash registers and the like, and altho the power companies certainly have no qualms about taking my cash, I doubt they have much to do with the wiring codes...)

;-)

National Electrcal Code, part of National Fire Prevention code
 
(what is the NEC- I assume from your comment it is some kind of regulatory body in the US???)- The only NEC I have come across here makes cash registers and the like, and altho the power companies certainly have no qualms about taking my cash, I doubt they have much to do with the wiring codes...)

;-)

National Electric Code. It's a huge catalog of information put into the most complicated way possible.............:)
 
I never liked that phrase. To me, it's like saying "It's not the gunpowder that kills you, it's the lead projectile." When in fact, it's the right combination of both that kills you.

It's different .. voltage and current are 2 sides of the same coin (well, together with resistance) you can't have one without another. Gunpowder and bullet are just two things.

120V is safer for sure, but it's by no means 100% safe.
 
12 0.0808 2.05
13 0.0720 1.83
14 0.0641 1.63
15 0.0571 1.45


OK weird yank wire sizes figured out in real measurements ie mm^2
I have heard of these 'gauge' wires but never had to deal with imperial units, even when we had feet and inches we still used fractions of an inch ^2 for cable sizes

The only 12 gauge I have ever used went boom and was good on rabbits....
 
That's not what he's saying. In my shop I have 10 amp and 20 amp 220v circuits that run with 14 and 12 gauge wire running small machines.

The amount of (expected) draw determines the wire size.

Yes, that's what I said. Talking about ovens and water heaters in household 220v, it's all high expected draw. Becomes a pedantic argument to say there is a lighter gauge for household appliance wiring when it basically does not exist.
 
Yes, that's what I said. Talking about ovens and water heaters in household 220v, it's all high expected draw. Becomes a pedantic argument to say there is a lighter gauge for household appliance wiring when it basically does not exist.

Actually here it does
but thats not what you said, "14 or 12 gauge wiring is used for 120v, but the higher amp draw of 240v"

is a factually incorrect statement
240v doesnt 'draw' more amps, in your country it is used for higher wattage appliances, here it isnt- everything from my led desklamp to the 3600w hot water service is 240v

And to do the same amount of 'work' ie wattage consumed- the voltage when doubled, will halve the current- which is why we use 240vac in the first place
 
Yes, that's what I said. Talking about ovens and water heaters in household 220v, it's all high expected draw. Becomes a pedantic argument to say there is a lighter gauge for household appliance wiring when it basically does not exist.
These are not the only examples of 220v appliances used in the US.

Electric baseboard heat and A/C units along with bathroom heaters are good examples that are typically rated as 20 amp or less.

Your blanket statement is incorrect.
 
I think it's rare these days, but 208V three phase with a neutral provides a convenient 120V from each phase to the neutral. Very early in my engineering career I actually got to design a machine for that. We could eliminate the usual transformer to provide 120V for the control circuitry.

Exactly: delta 208V is wye 208/sqrt(3)= 120V

but you never had needed a transformer: that's the way it's designed to be. You decided to plug it in one configuration and not the in the other.
 
PS: People who don't know what phase means in power provision shouldn't speak of it.
3 live to neutral voltages each 120 degrees out of phase relative to each other is 3 phase power.

But 2 live to neutral voltages both 180 degrees out of phase relative to each other is NOT 2 phase power. Got it. :rolleyes:
 
No. I'm right and you're wrong.
You are right if you are talking about something completely different to what I am posting.

I am referring to the power lines that run past your house and which you connect to in order to supply your house. (The 7,200 volt reference should have been a clue).
 
Actually here it does
but thats not what you said, "14 or 12 gauge wiring is used for 120v, but the higher amp draw of 240v"

is a factually incorrect statement
240v doesnt 'draw' more amps, in your country it is used for higher wattage appliances, here it isnt- everything from my led desklamp to the 3600w hot water service is 240v

And to do the same amount of 'work' ie wattage consumed- the voltage when doubled, will halve the current- which is why we use 240vac in the first place

Yes, I get that Oz is wired differently than the States, and I of course agree with the wattage calcs. Context. This is the post I responded to:

In the US system, the same wires are used in the 120V and 240V parts of the system.

================
NEC Article 310

To use your phrasing, this is factually incorrect statement. The 220 supply lines in the States for the high draw appliances listed earlier are not the same gauge as the 110 lines.

ETA: calling it amp draw instead of wattage draw is just construction shorthand around these parts.
 
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I add myself to the list of people boggled by that "gauge" thingy of those ethnic standards.

I declined to look for wire section. The "ampacity" of a "14 gauge" (my goodness!) is 15 Ampere in copper, so it must be between 2 and 2.5 square millimetres, if the same rules for wire life and safety are applied. If it's less than that, OMG! such wires in cardboard and match houses!

About some two-person debate: undoubtedly using 240V for the same energy consumption requires half of the current needed under 120V, but that won't make regulations any lighter regarding minimum wire section (or maximum "gauge" if you like that).
 
3 live to neutral voltages each 120 degrees out of phase relative to each other is 3 phase power.

But 2 live to neutral voltages both 180 degrees out of phase relative to each other is NOT 2 phase power. Got it. :rolleyes:

Shrugs- well I agree with you psion10, it was referred to as 2 phase power here when it was still used (mostly in country areas in some states)

2 phases 180 deg apart was 2 phase, 3 phases 120 deg apart is 415v/440v 3 phase, uncommon to have a dedicated motor etc using 2 of 3 phases of 240v, but common to split loads over 2 phases in large households where the current drawn was going to exceed the street line supply of 70A (older) or 100A(newer) where you could have 2 of 3 phases connected to the house to provide sufficient power (solid neutral required in the install tho)

(solid neutral is where the neutral is capable of carrying the combined total of all three phases, light or floating neutral has the same sized conductor as any single active or line conductor and a solid neural has the neutral wire is much larger than any single active conductor)
 

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